There has always been an eerie connection between smell and our capacity to imagine. It is strongly linked to the limbic system, the part of our brain that processes emotions. This explains why catching a whiff of something familiar can conjure a vivid memory of a person, place, or a specific moment.
Although its ability to trigger vivid memories may be overlooked, our sense of smell is our lone sense that has a direct connection to the brain. It is the reason why we think of summer when we smell citronella or coconuts, frosty winter nights when we smell patchouli or oak moss. Or sometimes our sense of smell even evokes a specific place like transporting us to Japan when we smell cherry blossoms or to the streets of Italy when we smell cardamom or saffron.
The strong connection of olfaction to our memory is evident in how fragrance companies always harp on this sense of escapism — each note is meant to capture the essence of a season or a place. But the newest scent by Aesop veers away from this tried-and-tested approach of using certain places or a mood as inspiration.
Taking on a different catalyst, Aesop’s Rōzu Eau de Parfum seeks to immortalize a life’s legacy. Inspired by the life, work, and enthusiasms of Charlotte Perriand, the celebrated French modernist designer, Rōzu Eau de Parfum is an intense yet tender fragrance that’s nuanced and expansive, with remarkable longevity that is meant to appeal to all genders.
Every aspect of Rōzu is crafted with the intent of representing Perriand’s life and work in all possible ways. From the overall aroma that is floral — a first in the Aesop fragrance lineup — with elements of green citrus and earthy notes. One sniff, and it is unmistakably rose — paying homage to the Wabara garden rose that bears her name, complemented by notes of vibrant Shiso — an ode to Perriand’s affection for Japan and the alpine environment she loved to explore, Guaiacwood — a representation of her kind and tenacious nature, and green Vetiver extracts — a recall to the men’s colognes she often wore. It is underpinned by Patchouli, Myrrh, and deeper, powdery base notes such as Petitgrain, Bergamot, and Pink Pepper — adding a hint of fresh spiciness.
We had the opportunity to discuss with the team who came up with this new scent to delve more into their creative process and approach. “The process of developing a fragrance begins with research into the inspiration, in the case the life and work of Charlotte Perriand,” Kate Forbes, Aesop’s Director for Innovation, began. “Then we worked collaboratively with Barnabé (Fillon) to imagine what ingredients could be used to bring this inspiration to life.”
“In formulating Rōzu, we took inspiration from Charlotte Perriand’s life as well as her work,” Barnabe Fillon, French perfume designer and one of Aesop’s long-time collaborators, explained. “In both personal and professional realms, she strode with confidence and cheerful audacity, tempered by a fluid sensibility and influenced by her extensive travels — particularly throughout Japan and South East Asia.”
Because of Charlotte Perriand’s affinity for Japan, Fillon traveled to the country together with Perriand’s daughter, Pernette Perriand-Barsac, and retraced her steps to further gain understanding of the many ways that the Japanese culture has shaped Perriand as an individual and designer. Hence, the presence of Shiso notes in Rōzu.
Through their many exchanges, Fillon was able to take inspiration from the many quirks and interests that Perriand was fond of. The addition of vetiver into the mix was a significant one as Perriand loved to wear a certain vetiver fragrance. But it’s not just the tangible things that gave the team inspiration. The florals, spices, and Guaiacwood embedded in the fragrance seek to represent Perriand’s tenderness.
Pernette Perriand-Barsac and Barnabe Fillon
With the plethora of fragrance ingredients they can use, how then were they able to choose which ones to include? “We focused on the natural materials that Charlotte Perriand was particularly fond of, and on her relationship with nature. Her buildings, her masterpieces, are linked to the body, to nature, and to a philosophy of life,” said her daughter, Pernette Perriand-Barsac. “The same goes for this fragrance, which has something eternal about it. It is not linked to fashion, to the ephemeral, but rather to much deeper things.”
Once the inspirations for the scent were narrowed down, Aesop entered many rounds of trials and tests with the ingredients from different sources and varying concentrations. “When assessing the aromas, we consider how the customer would be wearing it, since fragrances can evolve differently on different people,” Forbes explained. “Just as the life of Charlotte Perriand was non-conformist and multi-faceted, we have found the fragrance profile changes significantly based on the wearer highlighting different notes.”
Image copyright ©️ ACHP/ADAGP 2020
And when asked how she thinks Rōzu was able to immortalize her mother’s life and legacy, Pernette Perriand put it simply, “Much like music, perfume sparks a process of evocation. Rōzu simultaneously evokes the energy, the serenity and the world of Charlotte Perriand — a world one wants to live in.”
“This fragrance is not ‘added’ to the person wearing it — it is an invitation to go on a journey with Charlotte Perriand. The images produced by the Aesop team around the fragrance are a perfect illustration of this process,” she added.
Rōzu is available at Aesop Greenbelt and online. To place an order, e-mail aesop.greenbelt@wwi.ph.
