Carl Jan Cruz on the Journey that Shaped him as a Designer and his Vision for Philippine Fashion

When you think of contemporary Filipino fashion, Carl Jan Cruz, or also commonly referred to as ‘CJC,’ is one of the names you cannot miss. Praised for his emotionally-charged and deconstructed pieces inspired by Filipino culture, Carl Jan Cruz has made his mark both locally and abroad. To name a few of these accolades: the brand has been featured in the likes of Vogue Italia and i-D, has had showrooms in Paris and Milan, and has found different homes in multiple international retailers.

He built his global footing while entirely housing his operations in Manila—thanks to his vast experience both locally and internationally. He sat down with us one afternoon to talk about his journey from the Manila to Europe then back to Manila, the lessons he learned, and his vision for Philippine fashion.

You might think that he has always had his eyes set on fashion, but it’s actually not the case. Not until he came across photos of a Maison Margiela collection on the Internet during his tween years at least. “At first, I actually wanted to be a doctor,” CJC admitted.

Coincidentally, CJC grew up at a time where the Philippine retail industry was beginning to pick up. “There were brands coming in like Guess, Esprit, and Cinderella at that time. I think that’s when it dawned on me that people are getting more into dressing up. I think it was because of my parents too, my mom especially, because she was very much into dressing up,” he shared.

He then decided to take every opportunity he can to learn everything he needed to know about the industry –starting with his gigs in Manila. At 14 years old, he was already partaking in an array of fashion internships—fueled by his knack for wanting to learn how things are done. He tried everything that he could: wardrobe styling, doing pullouts, assisting in fashion shows, producing shows, and even interning for a local magazine. “No job is too small for me, basically, because I love the idea of learning”, he described his experiences.

But his next big move was all the way to one of the most prestigious fashion capitals in the world: London. CJC enrolled in the preeminent London College of Fashion (LCF), taking up a Menswear course. In those years he spent in LCF, he began to regard himself to be more of a ‘technical’ type of designer.

Photographer — Renzo Navarro

Contrary to the the usual process of starting with a big idea, he would rather take time to tinker with materials first to know what works and what doesn’t. “It makes sense in retrospect, even as a kid, and up to now, I really [really] obsess with the pattern first and how it should fit because I feel like that really defines what it [clothes] should look like. That’s how concepts could develop for me,” he shared.

But his journey of learning from the Western fashion industry didn’t stop there. CJC was able to intern in the major fashion house Céline when it was still under the leadership of Phoebe Philo ­– who was best known and celebrated for her reinvention of the fashion house. This was his culminating and pivotal internship.

In the time he spent here, the real and demanding world of fashion unveiled itself—shaping CJC’s standards and individuality. He would look at different Céline pieces and ask himself, “What if?” If he had a complete say, what would he do with the pieces? How can he style these clothes to his own image? And with these questions in mind, he knew what his next step should be: heading back home to create a brand of his own.

Doing that brought him back to the start. But CJC was driven with a brand-new ambition: to promote Filipino culture, materials, and talent, and bring the entire industry to the international stage to solidify that Philippine fashion can be at par with international names and fashion houses.

With Filipino heritage at the heart of Carl Jan Cruz, CJC has created a variety of clothing that has materialized his patriotic creative vision. An honorable mention would be his recent 2021 ‘Pambahay’ (house clothes) collection made from specially designed CJC fine jersey pique fabric, this aparador (cabinet) collection is an intimate take on the contemporary Filipino aesthetic” as described by the brand.

His crowd favorite ‘Denim Classics’ collection was ahead of its time in Filipino fashion with its deconstructed silhouettes. Overall, CJC has perfected an almost visual autobiography of everyday Filipino life, making his garments as intimate and bold as the creative process behind it. “It doesn’t matter if you’re a nobody because if you set a certain standard of doing things, people will notice it, because people will feel it,” he described how important it is to prioritize quality and intention in creation.

And as he continues to release one collection after another, both local and international names, publishers, and institutions have given him well-deserved recognition for his homegrown brand. Even the likes of Grimes and FKA Twigs were seen wearing a Carl Jan Cruz piece.