If there’s one thing Luanne Ronquillo believes, it’s that small businesses can make a big impact in their communities.
She would know. Her own business, a tiny ice cream shop in Toronto by the name of ruru baked, has made waves in Canada since its inception in 2017 and is enjoying a level of popularity previously unthinkable to her.
The ice cream shop has become notorious for selling out at the drop of a hat, with supplies barely lasting minutes before selling out. The COVID-19 pandemic saw ruru baked’s sales at their highest, to the point that they actually had to impose limits to the number of pints one could buy. The seeming impossibility of acquiring even a pint of ruru baked ice cream only furthered the mystique surrounding Ronquillo’s product until it was one of the most in-demand food items in Toronto.
Ronquillo’s success is even more remarkable considering she did not originally envision herself making ice cream for a living. ruru baked came out purely by chance.
Photographer — John Crawford
“I was originally a pastry chef,” she explains. “I didn’t even know how to make ice cream, and I didn’t particularly care for it because it’s a time-consuming process. But one day, my friend asked me if I knew how to, and that led me to try it for the first time. And that first batch came out good. So I decided to try again, and eventually, it became my little side hustle.”
That little side hustle eventually grew into a monster operation, due to the unexpected popularity of her ice cream. “It was crazy,” she recalls. “At first, it was a challenge because I wasn’t at the capacity people wanted me to be at. I was working 6 days a week, 10-12 hours a day, just to meet the demand.”
The sheer volume of orders eventually prompted Ronquillo to scale up her operations and invest in more expensive equipment capable of processing the vast number of orders she received. Her investment has evidently paid off.
The main factor distinguishing ruru baked is its usage of custard-style ice cream, a more traditional style which employs eggs more prominently in the mixture, as opposed to the more commonly known Philly-style variety which does not use eggs. “[Custard-style ice cream] was what I was familiar with, because it’s what they taught us at culinary school,” she says. To her, using eggs gives the ice cream a denser, smoother flavor which helps the ice cream stand out from other Toronto scoop shops.
But aside from the style of preparation, one other notable aspect of ruru baked’s ice cream is the vast and diverse range of flavors they offer. “We really tried to incorporate flavors from a wide range of influences,” says Ronquillo. A brief glance at their menu readily demonstrates this, with selections ranging from standard ice cream fare like chocolate, cookies and mint chip, to unconventional flavor combinations such as chrysanthemum and condensed milk and red bean.
A clear East meets West theme runs through the menu, which is hardly surprising for the half-Filipina, half-Singaporean Ronquillo who lived in Singapore before emigrating to Canada at the age of one. Representation has been an important goal of hers from the outset, and, in her words, “There can always be more.”
But Ronquillo also pulls from all kinds of influences, including things like childhood memories. She always encourages her staff to pull from their own influences in order to inspire new and exciting flavors for the shop.
This spirit of representation and inclusivity is one of ruru baked’s defining features, often informing the way Ronquillo interacts with the ruru baked team. “I’m not really looking to expand ruru baked into this massive operation. It would be nice to expand into one or two stores, but I don’t believe that growth always must be exponential. It’s enough for me that we grow within our team. I really enjoy having a small team, getting really good at what we’re good at and just getting better and better at it.”
But this spirit also projects externally as well as internally. A big priority for Ronquillo is giving back to her community—through whatever means she can. “People want to support businesses that align with their values. Community over commerce. People over profit.”
Ronquillo is more than willing to back up her words with actions. In the years since ruru baked’s inception, the business has attracted attention from big name-brands looking to collaborate. Just recently, ruru baked partnered with adidas to release a new flavor commemorating the release of adidas’ new ‘Confirmed’ app in Canada.
They have also partnered with brands such as Xylk, Hoegaarden, and the Kickback. But despite the attention, Ronquillo remains steadfast in upholding the values ruru baked stands for. “[Our main consideration is] if our values align. We usually work with brands who are more community-focused and give us the space to be creative.”
This community-centered approach doesn’t just translate to their choice of brand partnerships. ruru baked has been active in working with charities and nonprofits, donating to organizations such as the Black Visions Collective, FoodShareTO, and the Asian Mental Health Collective. “It’s not just about the business,” says Ronquillo “And I think it’s important to prioritize community and causes that matter. If you’re not accounting for the community that surrounds you, I don’t really think that’s fair.”
But if there’s one defining factor that unites all of ruru baked’s endeavors, it’s creativity. Ronquillo considers ruru baked an outlet with which to express her creative impulses, as well as those of her team.
“I get bored easily, so I love experimenting with ice cream flavors because we can always try different things. I don’t think there’ll ever be a shortage of ideas for what we can do.”
And although an adventurous medium, ice cream isn’t the only thing in which ruru baked’s creative energy manifests. The shop has its own dedicated merch line featuring various products, all with a unique aesthetic crafted by Ronquillo and her designer friends. “We always try to come up with new and exciting ideas for our menu and our collaborations. We don’t want to do what’s already been done,” she muses.
As for the secret to their success, Ronquillo has a theory. “I’d like to think it’s because our ice cream is really just that good,” she laughs. “I can’t imagine people would keep coming back if they didn’t like our stuff.” And true enough, her faith in Rurubaked’s products manifests in her desire to remain true to Rurubaked’s core brand and values. This, among other things, helps determine the kinds of flavors that make it onto their menu.
Ronquillo looks to the future with eager eyes. Though things have slowed since this dynamic ice cream store’s meteoric ascendancy and she seems comfortable maintaining a small, manageable business with a loyal customer base, she is decidedly not as comfortable remaining where she is creatively.
“I’m always looking for things to inspire me,” she says confidently. “I should travel more so that I get inspired.” New menu items on her agenda include ice cream cakes and ice cream sandwiches, among other things. “As for new flavors, we’re looking into new Asian flavors as well. Maybe a turon flavor.”
As for whether they’ll ever set up shop in the Philippines? “Maybe,” she quips. “I’d love to open up a location in a warm country.” Here’s to hoping.
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